SERVICES & PRICING

When your car can't wait, Skip the Line moves you to the front of the queue for the next available slot the garage can fit you into. You'll be contacted as soon as an opening comes up — including slots freed by cancellations that never make it to the public calendar.

Skip the Line is a queue-priority service, not a guaranteed time. How quickly you get in depends on how full the schedule is when you join, but members on the skip list are always offered openings before the public calendar is updated.

It's best for two situations: a diagnosis that found a problem you want fixed soon, and a family whose car is off the road entirely. If you're booking routine maintenance, the standard calendar will usually serve you just as well — and it keeps the skip list short for the people who truly need it.

The AC Diagnosis is the front door to almost every repair we do. In about 15 minutes we hook up the gauges, read the pressures on both the high and low side, pull any check-engine or AC trouble codes, and do a visual inspection of the compressor, condenser, lines, and fittings.

You leave with a clear, written answer: what's wrong (or what's close to failing), what the fix looks like, and what it will take to get your cold air back. There's no obligation to have the repair done here — many members use the diagnosis to make an informed decision before spending a single dollar more.

AC Diagnosis is the one service that doesn't require an active membership — anyone can book it, member or not.

The most common findings are a slowly leaking system that just needs a recharge and a fresh O-ring, a compressor clutch on its way out, or a condenser caked with dust that can't shed heat anymore. Catching a small leak early is the difference between a $20 visit and a compressor replacement — that's why we diagnose before any recharge, even when everyone suspects it 'just needs freon.'

This is the workhorse service of the garage: recharging a low system, tracking down and sealing leaks, replacing O-rings, Schrader valves, pressure switches, and lines, or evacuating and recharging the system with the correct refrigerant and capacity pulled straight from your  vehicle's factory specs.

Because every diagnosis is done first, we already know what your car needs before the repair starts, so the time booked matches the job. If the repair uncovers something unexpected — a seized compressor or a damaged condenser — you'll hear it from us before any extra work is done.

Labor is covered by the reservation fee plus the donation-based model; parts are billed at cost, and we'll confirm any parts price with you before ordering.

Every AC repair ends with a vacuum pull-down and leak verification: we evacuate the system, hold it under vacuum to prove it seals, then recharge with the exact refrigerant and oil charge from your vehicle's factory data. If a leak can't be pinpointed by sight, we can add UV dye and have you return after a few days of driving so the trace glows under the lamp — no guesswork, and no charging a system we know is leaking.

If your fan only works on one speed, or the air stops moving even though the AC is cold, the problem is usually the blower resistor or the blower motor itself. We test the resistor pack, the motor, and the switch before replacing anything, so you're not throwing parts at a guess.

This is a separate service from general AC repair because it's usually a quick, standalone fix — most  vehicles are done in about half an hour. Labor is a flat $50 reservation, and blower motors and resistors are billed at parts cost.

Helpful to know: if the fan works on the highest speed but not the lower ones, it's almost always the resistor — the cheaper, faster fix. If the fan is dead on every speed, or you hear scraping from the dash on high settings, it points to the motor itself. We run those tests with you so the right part gets ordered the first time.

Squealing, grinding, a soft pedal, or a shimmy when you brake — these are the signs we check first. The service covers pad replacement, rotor resurfacing or replacement, cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides, and a fluid condition check.

Brakes are the one system we never rush. If we find a caliper hanging up or a fluid leak while we're in there, we'll show you the problem and explain the options before doing anything beyond the booked service. Parts are billed at cost — economy and mid-tier pad and rotor sets are both available.

Every brake service starts with measurements, not guesses: pad thickness at all four corners, rotor thickness checked against the manufacturer's discard spec, and a look at fluid condition. You see the numbers before we touch anything. And if your brakes measure fine and the noise turns out to be something simpler — missing hardware shims, a glazed rotor — you'll leave knowing that instead of paying for parts you didn't need.

The oil change is BYO — bring your own oil and filter so you control exactly what goes in your  engine. We handle the rest: lift, drain, filter swap, a full fluid top-off check, and a quick look at belts, hoses, and tire pressure while the car is up.

This service is for standard passenger cars and unlifted trucks. Diesel engines and lifted trucks are outside what we can safely service on our setup, so we don't book them for oil changes.

Not sure what oil your car takes? Save your vehicle in the app first — we decode the VIN and pull the exact factory oil type and total capacity, so you buy the right jug the first time. The most common mistake we see is an engine left a quart low at every change because the owner never knew the full capacity. Synthetic or conventional is your call; your engine's spec is on the oil cap.

Dead battery every morning? Flickering lights? We load-test the battery, check the alternator's output under load, and test the connections and grounds before recommending a single part. If a replacement is needed, we install it — OEM or similar-quality alternators are strongly recommended, as the cheap universal units fail early and take your weekend with them.

Honesty clause: some vehicles make alternator replacement genuinely impractical in our bay (buried mounting bolts, required removal of other components). If we can't finish yours, we'll tell you up front and offer a refund of the reservation fee — no charge for our time looking.

If the battery keeps dying even after the alternator checks out, we'll hunt for a parasitic draw — something that keeps sipping power after shutdown, like a glovebox light, an aftermarket accessory, or a module that won't sleep. It's the kind of problem that turns into repeated $200 batteries at other shops when a 30-minute current test would have found the culprit.

The custom request covers everything else: cooling fans, thermostats, radiators, sensors, starters, and the odd jobs other shops won't touch. You describe the problem, leave your budget in the notes, and the shop reviews every request personally before it's approved.

The listed price is negotiable and the fee is only confirmed when the request is approved — the shop can adjust the duration and the fee to match the actual job before you pay a cent. If it's something the garage genuinely can't do, you'll get a straight answer and no charge.

Good candidates for a custom request: cooling fans that never kick on, a thermostat stuck open so the heater never warms, radiators with a slow seep, temperature sensors throwing mixed signals, and starters that click but won't crank. If you're not sure your job fits, submit it anyway — the worst outcome is an honest 'we can't do that one' and no charge.